VPL has been slowly growing up from it’s days of the Visible Panty Line as it’s only gimmick to keep the crowds coming. Victoria Bartlett’s collection continues to shine on, incorporating more wearable pieces for those ladies not comfortable with an easy to identify camel toe.  The look was part “Flashdance”, part French boutique owner. What’s most exciting about this collection is how it’s inspired a trend towards visible undies, a look that was imitated by Posen and Jacobs.  Your in good company Ms. Bartlett.

PHOTOS BY AUBREY MAYER

My favorite collection, by far, this fashion week was that of Jayson Brusdon. Showcased half an hour after the ever popular Zac Posen Fall 08 show, the pressure on Jayson was unimaginable. The crowd was tired, weary, and had various expectations. Then the show started…as the models entered the runway, gasps were heard and eyes widened. The models were gorgeous, one more beautiful than the next. The hair was tasseled and pulled into an updo, and the makeup was fresh and perfectly complimented the collection.

The collection started with all black looks with accents of crimson red, the only accessory being leather finger gloves. Unexpectedly, girly floral dresses showed up on the runway; Jayson being the only designer to bring the floral trend into fall. From the red carpet ready dresses, to the cocktail looks and the over-sized capes, the collection was fresh and innovative. As the last model walked down the runway, the audience began clapping, making the genius of the designer apparent.  Jayson left us wanting more, and left me with a new fave designer.

Entire collection available through GettyImage.

Jovovich Hawk has been on of those collections I want to hate on (the celebrity factor, sorry Milla) but can’t because of how cool the clothes really are. This duo has continuously thrown out collection after collection of highly wearble, slighty vintage inspired looks that can satisfy even the most tasteful fashionista (hate that word, we really need to create a new one).

This season, suiting played a part in the collection with a plaid piece that brought of a sense of London mod to the mix. As usual, a very solid collection. Hopefully handbags and accessories are next or maybe a maternity line Milla, I’m sure you’ve had some trouble finding vintage wear that would fit your baby bump.

Maria Cornejo Extra shined with a collection that expanded on the already widely held notion that this is one designer on the cusp of fashion immortality.  In probably her last collection before she goes officially “mainstream” the designer showcased what she does best, modern grasps of symmetry and bold burst of wearable color.

The show was held at the new atelier for Maria in a room that was packed to the walls with a who’s who of hipsterdom. Cory Kennedy was chilling front row.  FORM’s Jerry Tam (who recently became a celebrity when indie mag MetroPop got him to grace their covers) discussed his collections direction and his days as an assistant to GAP’s Patrick Robinson.

Piece after piece came down the runway as the crowd was wowed by an abundance of color with dresses in fuscia, cerelion, and blues.  The geometric shapes breathed real life into this very wearable collection by one of Fashion Indie’s favorite designers.  Also notable where horsehair accessories which added bursts of color and texture to Maria Cornejo Extra’s more traditional black and grey pieces.

In a season that has been “lackluster” to say the least, Benjamin Cho’s collection was pretty intense with intricate patterns, detailed cut-outs, and bursts of colors incorporated Cho’s signature style.  The favorites included a Carrie Bradshaw worthy blue burst of energy that came careening down the runway followed by a tangerine dress that would undoubtingly make any little startlet’s heart twitter down the red carpet.  One of the best of Fashion Week so definitely worth talking about.

Check out the photo’s below courtesy of Paper Mag (Mr. Mickey I still haven’t forgot about your BASHING. It’s festering buddy so be ready.)

Have to say it.  I don’t get this collection.

I know Thom Brown has been talked about as “the savior” of mens fashion, but his collection is just plain stupid. Fine, the simpler pieces may make sense and yes I can’t deny his amazing ability to make a wonderfully tailored jacket, but the high-water flood pants and bermuda suits this dude is pushing out are just ridiculous.  Who wears this stuff besides Thom and his models?

Also noted is the model in the feather jacket.  What the f*ck is that thing and why would anyone in their right mind ever wear it?  I’ve met Thom before and as much as I love who he is in person his collection of unwearable, prissy wear is just plain silly.  Hate to say it, but where are we without a little bit of honesty. Remember Indies, just because something is “different” from the norm, doesn’t mean it’s good fashion.

P.S. If you do choose to expose your pasty ankles and knees, please apply some of that tanning lotion or get a tan. No one wants to be blinded by your UV free wobblers.

[Photos courtesy of Paper Mag]

To be completely honest, this was an extremely refreshing show from a group of designers that have really surpassed my initial expectations with a collection that was a fresh, inspiring, wearable and a must have for any one looking for a little more glam for their everyday. Their hues we’re perfect for the New York woman looking for a bit of color to liven up her fall wardrobe. Why these designers didn’t win the recent CFDA award is still a mystery, but this collection definitely shows that even with out all the glamour they still have the glitz.

When it comes to menswear it’s usually a hit or miss for me. The continuous flow of collections which “borrow from” or seem like they are “copies of” never ends and after 10 or so reviews you feel like what you’re talking about is no longer special, but just another dopplegangler in the long list of potential things to pick up at Barney’s Warehouse Sale (if the price is right).

Rag & Bone is one of the collections that start the trend. Imitated and copied, the stylish simplicity and wearability of the collection is often duplicated by other young designers.

“With the 1982 film “Blade Runner” on their minds, David Neville and Marcus Wainwright sent out a stellar lineup of strong-shouldered suits, sleek cashmere knits — new for the duo — and, of course, the requisite black leather, which they fashioned into an ultracool tunic dress.” - WWD.

Subdued with muted olives, and lots of black the collection was impressively edited and a strong outing for the recent CFDA/GQ recognized designers. As usual the outerwear shined, the trousers we’re impeccable and the companies jeanswear roots continued to fade. Check out the photos and judge for yourself.

Inspired, desired or just another on to add to the bunch?

There are many pre-parties for Fashion Week, and last night we had the honor of attending one of them. Personally invited by the honoree, Matt Levine of Steelo, the party was buzzing with industry folk, local celebs, models, and a slew of very well dressed fashionites and trendsetters. The brand encompasses en entire lifestyle which was evident throughout the crowded lounge, most of whom were wearing pieces from Steelo’s (which means ’style’) latest collection. Matt, wearing, of course, one his own creations greeted all guests and happily posed for press photos.

He started the collection back in 2004 with the idea of fusing together nightlife, entertainment, and fashion. ‘’My first collection was comprised of just t-shirts and customized blazers. I wanted to start off slow where the mistake and setbacks would be minimal. The first piece I created was a shirt entitled ‘I Love Paparazzi’ which was featured on the NBC Today Show—worn by Paris Hilton and Lindsay Lohan. It was actually a men’s sweater, but women loved the oversized look of it. I was sold out of it immediately.”

With this kind of celebrity endorsing your threads, Steelo was sure to to a huge hit throughout the industry.

“In creating Steelo I wanted to create a sophisticated collection with style, fresh with elegance, the Lower East Side fused with Wall Street, the confidence of New York, the influence of Los Angeles, and the creativity of Japan.”

A true visionary, Matt believes that “if you sell to the right store, the right people will buy it.” Whatever his strategy, the boy is doing something right and we definitely respect his passion for the industry. His collection is available locally and online at Caravan.

Written by Rebecca Alexander

The tents at Bryant Park at back a little early this season. No, the CFDA didn’t push the date forward to celebrate another Jewish holiday (sit down Marc, there’s no need to pack your bags, yet). The Sex and the City movie has recreated the tents (from last season, you can tell by the graphics on the tent which are normally changed every six months) to shoot a scene in which Samantha gets doused in red paint by PETA supports. Looks like you can’t escape Stella McCarthyism, not even on the big screen.